6-Day Superstaro Shawl featuring Noro Yarn

A variation of the classic crochet pattern the
6-Day Kid Blanket by Betty McKnit

Purchase a Yukata Kit for this project at Knitting Fever (affiliate link).

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Introduction
This pattern is an adaptation of the 6-Day Supertar Blanket and 6-Day Star Supershawl by Betty McKnit adapted especially for Noro Yarn. It creates a stunning, slightly more than half-circular star-shaped shawl with nine points and a unique border.

There is also a shawl adaptation of the 6-Day Star Blanket and Shawl for Noro Yarns called the 6-Day Staro Shawl.

Details:
US Terminology
Skill Level: Easy
Finished Size: 60”wide x 30” long.
Materials:
Yarn: Two balls of Noro Yukata, shown in #6 Kawasaki
or 1500 yards of #2 Weight Yarn

Purchase a Yukata Kit for this project at Knitting Fever (affiliate link).

Hook: Size H (5mm)
Stitch markers
Yarn needle for weaving in ends.
Optional: Shawl Clip, pin, button or other closure

Abbreviations
bet: between
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dc3tog: double crochet 3 together cluster (see below)
fpdc: front post double crochet
fphdc: front post half double crochet
hdc: half double crochet
picot: (sc, ch 2, sc in side of sc just made)
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
sp(s): space(s)
st(s): stitch(es)

Special Stitches:
dc3tog (cluster) – this stitch is a cluster, not a decrease. It is worked as follows: yo, pull up a loop, pull through two loops, *yo, pull up a loop IN THE SAME STITCH/SPACE, pull through two loops, repeat from *, yo and pull through all loops on the hook. dc3tog complete.

About the row numbers:
In order to provide consistency across all of the 6DKB pattern variations, I’ve numbered the rows to correspond to the original 6-Day Kid Blanket pattern. The cluster rows are always Row or Rows 2 and 3, the dc rows are always Rows 5 and 6, and the sc rows are always Rows 4 and 7. This makes it easy to remember which row comes next.

Color Pooling
Noro is a self-striping yarn variegated yarn with amazing color combinations. The yarn is meant to mimic how colors appear in nature, therefore there is an artistic inconsistency in the way the colors appear in the yarn. Sometimes colors do not flow in the same order each time, nor are the lengths of color consistent. There is no way to predict exactly how the colors are going to flow, so be prepared to be amazed and delighted.

I found at the sides of the work that there was sometimes a pooling effect due to reversing the direction of the stitches. I alternated the cakes of yarn changing cakes every two rows in order to balance any color pooling. A few times I removed a prominent color if it was showing up on the same side too much and added it to the other side of the work. This is completely optional. This project is yours to work up to your satisfaction.

Changing Yarns
I treated alternating the yarns like any other color change, pulling the new yarn through the last two loops of the last stitch of the row. There is no need to fasten off; carefully carry the other yarn up the side of the work taking care to keep the tension like Goldilocks – not too tight, not too loose, but just right.

At the beginning of the rows, work into st below the turning chain unless directed otherwise.

Begin Pattern
Ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring.

Set-up Row 1: ch 2 (does not count), 9 dc into ring. (9 dc total)
Turn

Set-up Row 2: ch 2 (does not count), 2 dc in same st. 2 dc in each st cross. (18 dc total)
Turn

(to avoid pooling, change to the second ball here)

Setup Row 3: ch 1, sc in same st and each st across. (18 sc)

Set-up Row 4: ch 2, dc in same st, *ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, repeat from * to last dc, ch 3, dc in last dc. (5 ch 3 sps and 4 ch 1 sp. Note: 2 dc are NOT made in the same st.)
Turn

(To avoid pooling, change back to the first ball. Continue to change balls after every two rows, carrying the yarn up the side edge, taking care not to pull the floats too tight.)

Set-up Row 5: ch 3, [dc3tog, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp. *dc3tog in ch 1 sp, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, repeat from * twice, dc3tog in ch 1 sp, [3 dc, ch 3, dc3tog], dc in top of turning chain.
Turn

Set-up Row 6: ch 3, [dc3tog, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, *dc3tog in next 2 sps, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, repeat from * twice, dc3tog in next 2 sps, [3 dc, ch 3, dc3tog] in last ch 3 sp, dc in turning ch.
Turn

Set-Up Row 7: ch 1, sc in same st and each st across, working 3 sc in ch 3 sps, repeat to last 2 sts, sk 1, sc in turning ch. (52 sc)
Turn

Set Up Row 8: ch 3, counting the st under your ch, sk 1, 2 dc, *[5 dc in center sc from row below], 4 dc, sk 2, 4 dc, repeat from * to last peak, [5 dc in center sc from row below] 2 dc, dc in last sc. (62 dc + ch 3)
Turn

Set Up Row 9: ch 3, counting the st under your ch, sk 2, 3 dc, *[5 dc in center dc from row below], 5 dc, sk 2, 5 dc, repeat from * to last peak, [5 dc in center dc from row below], 3 dc, sk 1, dc in turning ch. (72 dc + ch 3)
Turn

If your tension is at all tight, increase hook size before the next row.

Set-up Row 10: ch 1, sc in same st, sk 1, 4 sc, *3 sc in center of 5 dc from the row below, 6 sc, ch 3, sk 2 sts, 6 sc, repeat from * to last peak, 3 sc in center dc, 4 sc, sk 1, sc in turning ch. (73 sc and 4 ch 3 sps).
Turn

Set-up Row 11: ch 4, counting the st under your chain, sk 3, dc3tog cluster in next st, *sk 2, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in center sc from row below, sk 2, dc3tog, sk 4, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, sk 4, dc3tog in next st, repeat from * to last peak, [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in center sc, sk 2, dc3tog in next st, sk 2, edc in last st.
Turn

Set-up Row 12: ch 3, sk sp between last dc and dc3tog, dc3tog in next sp, *[3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, dc3tog in next 2 sps, repeat from * to last peak, [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, dc3tog in next sp, dc in turning ch.
Turn

Proceed to Row 4.

Don’t let the row numbers throw you off or overthink a change in the sequence. You’ll proceed from Setup Row 12 to Row 4. Work the rows in the order given here.

Row 4: ch 1, sc in same st, 4, (7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22) sc, * 3 sc in ch 3 sp, 8 (14, 20, 26, 32, 38, 44) sc, repeat from * to last ch 3 sp, 3 sc in ch 3 sp, 4, (7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22) sc, sc in turning ch.
Turn

On subsequent sc rounds, the number of scs between the peaks will increase by 6. The numbers in parentheses show the number of scs on each subsequent repeat of the pattern.

Row 5: Ch 3, sk 2 (counting the st beneath your ch) 4 (7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22) dc, *[5 dc in center sc from row below], 4 (7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22) dc, sk 2, 4 (7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22) dc, repeat from *, 4 (7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22) dc, sk 1, dc in last st.
Turn

Row 6: Ch 3, sk 2, 5 (8, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23) dc, *[5 dc in center dc from row below], 5 (8, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23) dc, sk 2, 5 (8, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23) dc, repeat from *, 5 (8, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23) dc, sk 1, dc in turning chain.
Turn

On subsequent rounds 5 and 6, the number of dcs on either side of the mountain will increase by 3. The numbers in parentheses show the number of dcs on each subsequent repeat of the pattern.

Row 7: ch 1, sc in same st and each st across, making 2 sc in each center of 5 dc from the row below, sc in turning ch. (You should have 8 (8, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23) sc on each end, 2 sc in each peak, and 14 (20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50) sc between the peaks.
Turn

Proceed to row 2.

You will be guided to work the rows in the proper order; don’t let the numbers throw you off or overthink a change in the sequence. You’ll proceed from Setup Row 7 to Row 2.

Row 2: ch 4, counting the st under your chain, sk 3, dc3tog in next st, * [sk 2, 3 dc in next st], repeat from * to peak [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in second of 2 sc from row below, **[sk 2, 3 dc in next st], repeat from ** to 5th stitch before the center valley st, making last 3 dc in the 5th stitch before the center valley st, sk 4, dc3tog in the center valley st, sk 4, 3 dc in next st, repeat from * to last peak, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in second of 2 sc from row below, repeat [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to end, working the last dc3tog in the third sc from the end of the row, sk 1, edc in last st.
Turn

Hint: the first time you work this row, there will only be on group of 3 dc between the peak and the dc3tog in the center of the valley.

Row 3: ch 4, sk sp between turning ch and dc3tog, dc3tog in next sp, *3 dc in each sp to peak, [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, 3 dc in each sp, to the valley, dc3tog in sps before and after the dc3tog in row 2, repeat from * to end, make last dc3tog in sp before the last dc3tog in the row below, edc in turning ch sp.
Turn

Repeat Rows 4, 5, 6, 7, 2, 3 in that order six times more (for a total of seven repeats) ending on row 4. Do not fasten off or turn.

Proceed to Top Edge Row 1.

Top Edge
Top Edge Row 1: On your final row, make 3 sc in the last st of the row and continue down the sides the rows/across the top edge of the shawl. Treating the turning chains and the sc and dc stitches like foundation chains, work sc across the top edge working under 2 threads of each stitch and leaving one thread below. This creates a beautiful even edge to the work. The number of sc you will put in each stitch will vary depending on your tension. Lay your work down often to check that your edge is laying flat and adjust the number of stitches accordingly.
Turn.

Optional Buttonholes for Closure: Place two stitch markers on the top edge of the shawl, each halfway between the center and the edge of the work, or wherever you would like to put your closure. If you are planning to use a button to close the shawl, you can just mark one side.

Top Edge Row 2: ch 2, hdc in each st across. For buttonhole, work (ch 2, sk 1) at marked stitches.
Turn

Top Edge Row 3: ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in same sp, *sk 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next st. Repeat from * across, end with sc in last st. At buttonhole, work 3 sc in ch 1 sp.
Do not turn or fasten off. Proceed to Border Row 1.

Border
Border Row 1: Continuing from Top Edge Row 3, ch 3, sc in the first sc of the last shawl row. *sk 2, ch 3, sc in next st, repeat from * 8x to peak. (sk 3, ch 3, sc in next st) over peak. (sk 2, ch 3, sc in next st) 8 times to valley, (sk 1, ch 2, sc in next st) over valley. (9 ch sps on each end, 8 ch sps between peaks, and ch sp over each peak and valley.)
Turn

Border Row 2: ch 1, sc in same st, ch 3, sc in first ch 3 sp, *5 dc in next ch sp, sc in next sp, repeat from * to peak, 7 dc in ch sp at peak, sc in next ch sp. Repeat from * to valley, sc in valley sp. Continue in this pattern across, end with sc in last ch 3 sp, ch 3, sc in last sc.
Turn

Border Row 3: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next ch 3 sp. *2 fphdc, (sc, picot, sc) in next dc, 2 fphdc, sk 1, repeat from * to peak, 3 fphdc, (sc, picot, sc) in next dc, 3 fphdc, in peak, sk 1, repeat from * across. End with sc in last ch 3 sp, sc in last sc.

Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Optional: Add closure to top edge.

Pattern Tested by KD Wright, Peta Gehrmann, Laura Cromwell, Lecisha Eacholes and Dee Louise.

Special thanks to KD Wright, Peta Gehrmann, and to the citizens of the Betty McKnitiverse. for their work on the development of this pattern.

Join us in the 6-Day Kid Blanket Facebook Group and on my YouTube Channel for help with this pattern.

This pattern is 100% original and the intellectual property of Betty McKnit/Beth Elliott. This pattern, The 6-Day Kid Blanket, “6DKB,” 6-Day Star Blanket, and derivative works are protected by copyright. Publishing translations, corrections, variations, or tutorials of this pattern, online or elsewhere without written permission from the owner is a violation of copyright.

The stitch pattern is “Vivid Chevrons” #110 from 200 Ripple Stitch Patterns by Jan Eaton inspired this design.
Reprinted with permission from Quarto Publishing.

Items created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale with credit to Betty McKnit in your listing.
Be sure to tag @bettymcknit in your social media posts so I can enjoy your beautiful creations.

Border is inspired by Around the Corner Crochet Borders and Every Which Way Crochet Borders by Edie Eckman.