The 6-Day Superstar Blanket

6-Day Superstar Blanket

A variation of the classic crochet pattern the 

6-Day Kid Blanket by Betty McKnit

Introduction

This variation of the classic 6-Day Kid Blanket works from the center out into the shape of a fourteen-pointed star. No one can make just one 6-Day Blanket, Star Blanket, or Superstar Blanket, and with so many choices you will never get bored.

This fun and easy pattern is adaptable, perfect for crocheters of all levels of experience. It is easy enough for new crocheters and interesting and addictive for the more seasoned. This blanket can be made in virtually any yarn, can be striped any number of ways, and you can stop at 12 rounds for a lovey size, or continue to grow your blanket as large as you want. The border an adaptation of Pattern #101 from Around the Corner Crochet Borders by Edie Eckman.

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There is an ad-free .pdf copy of this pattern available for sale at the bottom of this page.

What’s the difference between this blanket and the 6-Day Star, and 6-Day Supernova Blankets?

  • The 6-Day Star blanket has seven points. It is the easiest of the star blankets. It has eight setup rows and is repetitive after that. I suggest first timers and new crocheters start with the 6-Day Star.
  • The 6-Day Superstar has 14 points and comes out almost circular with chevrons. It has a more challenging setup but once the setup is complete it is repetitive (like the 6-Day Star).
  • The 6-Day Supernova has a total of 14 points: 7 larger points and 7 smaller points. It isn’t difficult to make but the pattern itself has lots of different rows. Try the Supernova when you feel comfortable with the Star and you’re ready for a challenge.

You can also make a 6-Day Star, Superstar, or Supernova Holiday Tree Skirt, or a 6-Day Star, Superstar, or Supernova Shawl.

Details

US Terminology with UK Conversions given
Finished Size: Variable
Skill Level: Easy
Gauge: varies depending on your yarn.

Materials

Yarn: this pattern works with almost any yarn. Yardage for the most common sizes are below. Check the chart at the end of this pattern for yardage estimates for more yarn and sizes.

  • For DK or #3 weight yarn you will need approximately 1600 yards for a 40” baby blanket and 2800 yards for a 60” throw-sized blanket.
  • For Worsted or #4 weight yarn you will need approximately 1500 yards for a 40” baby blanket and 2500 yards for a 60” throw-sized blanket.

Hook
Three hooks: one .5 mm larger than recommended on the yarn label
another .5 mm larger, and a third 1mm larger.

You will need a much larger hook than you might normally use for your chose yarn weight in order to alleviate curling. I suggest starting with a hook .5-1 mm larger than the size suggested on the yarn label, and have two larger hooks on hand, .5 mm and 1 mm larger than the starting hook. Start with the smallest hook and if the points of your star begin to curl in the startup rows, increase your hook by 5 mm. 

Lay your blanket down after each round and make sure it is laying flat. It’s usually okay to increase your hook size after the first round in which you experience curling without ripping back. Check out all of these tips for yourself and lay your work down often and “admire it.”

If your work ruffles you have most likely made a mistake somewhere and added too many stitches. In my experience it is unusual to see a blanket ruffling because the hook is too big. It’s almost always because the crocheter misread the pattern and added too many stitches.

Stitch Markers, Scissors, Yarn needle for weaving in ends

US terms abbreviationUK terms abbreviation
single crochet scdouble crochet dc
half double crochet hdchalf treble crochet htr
double crochet dctreble crochet tr
US-UK Terminology Conversions

Abbreviations 
6DSB: 6-Day Star Blanket
bet: between
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dc2tog: double crochet 2 together cluster
dc3tog: double crochet 3 together cluster
rsc: reverse single crochet
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
sp(s): space or spaces
st(s): stitch(es) 
x: times

Repeats
(   ) Work stitches in parentheses in the same st or sp.
[   ] Repeat everything within the brackets the indicated number of times.
* Indicates beginning of repeat
** Indicates end of repeat on last repeat only.

Stitch Counts

  • Stitch counts between < >
  • Counts for subsequent rounds are given in parentheses like so: first repeat (second repeat, third repeat) etc.
  • Unless indicated otherwise, ch 3 counts as dc.
  • If your stitch counts are off, avoid the temptation to self-correct without understanding your mistake. The pattern should work out as written.
  • I’ve given you stitch counts for 10 repeats. You do not have to do them all.

Special Stitches:

dc2tog: (cluster):  yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, insert hook into same st/sp, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through two loops, yo and pull through 3 loops. 

dc3tog: (cluster): yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, [yo, insert hook into same st/sp, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through two loops] 2 times. yo and pull through 4 loops.

 Does it Really Only Take Six Days?

All of my patterns that use the same six rows alternating rows of sc, dc, and clusters, with or without chevrons, are named 6-Day Crochet. The name of this pattern comes from the original 6-Day Kid Blanket, which was toddler sized and made with chunky yarn, and took me an easy six days to make. This variation uses the same stitches as that original pattern, but you can use any yarn and make it any size you want, so whether you can meet the six day deadline will depend on several factors. It is 100% possible to complete a large blanket in six days. You will love how fast the 6-Day Superstar Blanket works up.

Tips for Completing in Six Days

To complete this project in six days, it will depend on how fast you crochet, what kind of yarn you use, and what size blanket you want to make. Most crocheters will need to work 2-4 hours each day. On the first day, do the Setup Rounds and the first repeat, after that do at least one repeat per day. Blankets with more than six pattern repeats will probably take longer than six days, or more than 4 hours per day to complete.

First Timers

If this is your first time making a 6-Day Blanket, and you are fairly new to crochet, it might help you  to make a swatch of the original pattern on 37 chains while following along with my video tutorials on my YouTube Channel. The video tutorials are meant to help you understand this pattern, but they are not intended to replace this pattern or be used without it.

Setup Rounds/Round Numbers

There are dozens of 6-Day Crochet patterns, and in order to provide consistency across all of the 6DKB variations, I’ve numbered the rows to correspond to the original 6-Day Kid Blanket. The cluster rows are always Row or Round 2 and 3, the dc rows are always Row or Round 5 and 6, and the sc rows are always Row or Round 4 and 7. This makes it easy to adapt any pattern to the many ways there are to stripe your 6-Day Kid Blanket.

You will be guided to work the rows in the proper order; don’t let the numbers throw you off or overthink a change in the  sequence.

This pattern begins with eleven setup rounds which you only work once. After Setup Rounds 1-11, you will pick up the repeating 6DKB rounds 2-7 in the middle of the six-round sequence at Round 4. until your blanket reaches the size you like. End on round 4. Don’t let the numbers being out of order throw you off; 6DKB repeat rows/rounds are always 2-7. You’re just starting the first repeat at 4. 

Changing Colors

6-Day Crochet patterns can take on many different looks depending on which row or rounds the color changes fall on. This pattern does not give specific color changes, but if you would like to reproduce some of the most well-known 6DKB stripes, see my article “No Two 6-Day Kid Blankets are Alike” for more information about how to to alter this pattern to create different looks.

The first 6-9 rows of this version look best when the yarn does not change colors in the middle of a round, so if you are using cake yarn, you may want to purchase an extra cake so you can cut colors for at least the first few rows. After the center is complete, mid-row color changes are not as obvious.

When changing colors, fasten off the old color. Rotate the work and begin the next color with a standing stitch in a different valley.

Joining the rounds:

Take care that you do not create extra stitches when you join your rounds, especially the sc rounds. See my YouTube Channel for a tutorial video guiding you to use stitch markers at the start of the sc rounds.

Video Tutorials

This pattern has video tutorials on YouTube. The tutorials are meant to help you understand this pattern, but they are not intended to replace this pattern or be used without it.

Community Support

I am available on multiple social media platforms. The best way to get support is through my Facebook community dedicated to helping crocheters with the 6-Day Crochet Projects, loaded with free resources and people to answer your questions. 

Join my membership community The Betty McKnitiverse for bonus content, exclusive 6-Day Star Blanket variations not published elsewhere (including a 16-point 6-Day Superstar), and ask your questions directly during one of my many community zoom calls.

16 Point Superstar Blankt in pink, rose, and burgundy tones.
Betty McKnitiverse Exclusive 6-Day 16 Point Star

Join one of my online communities to knit and crochet along with friends, get help with pattern questions, show off your makes, and access tons of free resources for making 6-Day Crochet and other Betty McKnit designs.

6-Day Crochet Community Facebook Group Cover

Begin Pattern

With smaller hook, ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring (magic ring not recommended).

Setup Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout), 13 dc into ring, join with sl st to top of ch 3. <14 dc>

Setup Round 2: ch 3, dc in same st. 2 dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. <28 dc>

Setup Round 3: ch 3, dc in next st, *ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, ch 1 **, dc in next 2 sts, repeat from * ending last repeat at **, join with sl st to top of ch 3. <28 dc, 7 ch-3 sps, 7 ch-1 sps>

Setup Round 4: sl st in next dc and ch-3 sp, (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in same sp, *dc3tog in ch 1 sp, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, repeat from * around, dc3tog in last ch-1 sp, join with sl st to top of ch 3. <14 3-dc clusters, 7 ch-3 sps, 7 dc3tog>

If you experience curling during the setup rounds, change to a .5 – 1 mm larger hook. Remember to lay your work down after every round and admire it, and while you’re admiring, check for curling. If you do not experience curling, you do not have to change hooks.

Setup Round 5: sl st into the gap just below your hook, between the dc3tog and the 3 dc, (ch 2, dc2tog) in same sp, *(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, **dc3tog in next 2 sps, repeat from * ending last repeat at **, dc3tog in last sp, join with sl st to top of dc2tog cluster (be sure to join in the top of the cluster and not to the ch 2). <14 3-dc clusters, 7 ch-3 sps, 14 dc3tog>

Setup Round 6: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, working 3 sc in ch-3 sps. Join with sl st to first sc (be sure to join to the top of the sc and not the sl st, here and throughout).<77 sc>

Setup Round 7: sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in next 3 sts, *(5 dc in center sc from row below), dc in next 4 sts,** sk 2, dc in next 4 sts, repeat from * ending last repeat at ** sk 2, join with sl st to top of ch 3. <91 dc>

Since we are always working from the right side, the top of the center st in the peaks lies not directly above, but slightly to the right of the center stitch.

Setup Round 8: sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in next 4 sts, *(5 dc in center sc from round below), dc in next 5 sts, sk 2, ** dc in next 5 sts, repeat from * ending last repeat at ** , join with sl st to top of ch 3. <105 dc>

Set-up Round 9: sl st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 5 sts, *3 sc in center dc from the round below, sc in next 6 sts, ch 3, sk 2,** sc in next 6 sts, repeat from *around, ending with **. Join with sl st to first sc. <105 sc, 7 ch-3 sps>

Setup Round 10: sl st in the next 3 sts, ch 2, dc2tog cluster in same st, *ch 1, sk 3, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in center sc from row below, ch 1, sk 3, dc3tog, ch 1, sk 3, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, ch 1, sk 3,** dc3tog in next st, repeat from * around, ending with **, join with sl st to top of starting dc2tog. <28 3-dc clusters, 14 dc3tog>

Setup Round 11: sl st into next ch-1 sp, ch 2, dc2tog in same sp, *(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, ** dc3tog in next 2 sps (one before and one after the dc3tog in the row below), repeat from * around ending with ** dc3tog in the last sp, join with sl st to first dc2tog. <28 3-dc clusters, 28 dc3tog>

Setup Rounds Complete. Proceed to Round 4.

We are beginning the 6-Day Crochet repeating rounds 2-7, picking up at Round 4. Don’t let the change in sequence throw you off. Round 4 is next.

Round 4: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, working 3 sc in ch-3 sps.  Join with sl st to first sc. <8 (14, 20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 56, 62) sc between each peak, 3 sc in each ch-3 sp>

On subsequent sc rounds, the number of scs between the peaks will increase by 6. The numbers in parenthesis show the number of scs on each subsequent repeat of the pattern.

Round 5: sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in next 3 (6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30) sts, *(5 dc in center sc in peak), dc in next 4 (7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 28, 31) sts, sk 2, ** dc in next 4 (7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 28, 31) sts, repeat from *, ending last repeat at **, join with sl st to top of ch 3. <8 (14, 20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 56, 62) dc between each peak, 5 dc in each peak st>

Round 6: sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in next 4 (7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 28, 31) sts, *(5 dc in center dc in peak), dc in next 5 (8, 11, 14, 17,  20, 23, 26, 29, 32) sts, sk 2, ** dc in next 5 (8, 11, 14, 17,  20, 23, 26, 29, 32) sts, repeat from *, ending at **, join with sl st to top of ch 3. <10 (16, 22, 28, 34, 40, 46, 52, 58, 64) dc between each peak, 5 dc in each peak st>

On subsequent rounds 5 and 6, the number of dcs on either side of the mountain will increase by 3. The numbers in parenthesis show the number of dcs on each subsequent repeat of the pattern.

Round 7: ch 1, sc in same st and each st around, making 2 sc in each center of 5 dc in the peak. (Since we are working on all right sides and not turning, the top of the center dc is above and slightly to the right of the center stitch). Join with sl st to first sc. <14 (20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 56, 62, 68) between each peak and 2 sc in each peak st>

Round 2: ch 2, dc2tog cluster in same st (mark this st), *ch 1, sk 4, [3 dc in next st, sk 2] 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) x, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in second of 2 sc in peak, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) x, ch 1, sk 4, ** dc3tog in next st, repeat from * , ending last repeat at **,  join with sl st to top of starting dc2tog. <56 (84, 112, 140, 168, 196, 224, 252, 280, 308) 3 dc clusters, 14 ch-3 sps, 14 dc3tog> 

Round 3: sl st in next sp, ch 2, dc2tog in same sp (mark this st), *3 dc in each of next 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) sps, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each of next 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) sps, ** dc3tog in next 2 ch-1 sps (one before and one after the dc3tog in the round below), repeat from * ending last repeat at **, dc3tog in last sp. Join with sl st to marked dc2tog. <56 (84, 112, 140, 168, 196, 224, 252, 280, 308) 3 dc clusters, 14 ch-3 sps, 28 dc3tog> 

Repeat Rounds (4, 5, 6, 7, 2, 3) in that order approximately 3 times for baby blanket size, and 5 times for a throw size. Finish with round 4 once more. Do not repeat the Setup Rounds. I’ve given you stitch counts for 10 repeats. You do not have to do them all.

Fasten off. Continue to Finishing.

 Finishing

This edge is an adaptation of Pattern #101 from Around the Corner Crochet Borders by Edie Eckman.

Edge Round 1: Join with sc in any peak in the st before the 2 sc in the peak st. *ch 3, sk 2, sc in next st, repeat from * around, fudging the number of ch sps and skips in order to have a ch sp centered over the valley, an even number of ch loops between the peaks and valleys, and a ch sp over each peak. Join with sl st into first sc.

Edge Round 2: sl st into next ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), (3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in ch-3 sp, sc in next sp, *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch sp, sc in next sp, repeat from * around, working (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in peaks and (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) elsewhere. You should always land in the valley with an sc. Join with sl st to first st.

Edge row 3: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each stitch around, work sc, picot, sc in each ch sp on the points. Join with sl st to first sc.

Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

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This pattern is original and the intellectual property of Beth McKee Elliott aka Betty McKnit. This pattern, The 6-Day Kid Blanket, “6DKB,” 6-Day Star Blanket, “6DSB,” and all derivative works are protected by copyright. Publishing translations, corrections, variations, or tutorials of this pattern, online or elsewhere without written permission from the owner is a violation of copyright.

6-Day Superstar Blanket Playlist on YouTube

Items created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale with credit to Betty McKnit in your listing. 

Be sure to tag @bettymcknit in your social media posts so I can enjoy your beautiful creations.

Edging was inspired by ideas I found in Edie Eckman’s books “Around the Corner Crochet Borders” and “Every Which Way Crochet Borders.”

This page contains affiliate links. If you click these links and buy something on the page they take you to, I may, at no additional cost to you, earn a commission. I only affiliate with products and companies I feel good about. Thank you for your support!

The 6-Day Crochet stitch pattern was inspired by “Vivid Chevrons” #110 from 200 Ripple Stitch Patterns by Jan Eaton.

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