6-Day Halter Top

Crochet Pattern by Betty McKnit and Jacqueline Yu from Jacq of Yarns
A variation of the classic 6-Day Kid Blanket

Featuring Noro Yarn

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Introduction

Say hello to the perfect summer crochet project, the 6-Day Halter Top. This design was conceptualized in collaboration with Jacqueline Yu from Jacq of Yarns. I love Jacqueline’s clever design ideas and her crochet fashion sense, and this collaboration was really fun. 

In creating this garment, Jacqueline and I brought our signature styles to the table. My version is classic 6-Day Crochet, and Jacqueline’s version begins with her signature 5-Petal Flower Square. If you would like the flower in the center front of your halter top instead of the 6-Day square, please visit www.jacqofyarns.com for the 5-Petal Flower Square version.

My all time favorite yarn comes from Noro Yarns. Noro and 6-Day Crochet are a match made in heaven, the colors of all of their yarns are incredible. I worked up my version of the 6-Day Halter in the stunning Noro Yukata #14, and there are photos of Jacqueline’s version in Noro Natsumeki and Kompeito. They’re all wonderful with different feels and qualities, and absolutely amazing colors.

In true 6-Day Crochet style, this garment is adaptable to different yarns, and is made-to-measure to be 100% size inclusive.

This pattern is provided free with advertisements on this page. If you would like an ad-free .pdf, you can purchase one at the bottom of the page. The .pdf is the same as this pattern, with the exception of the ads.

Other 6-Day Kid Blanket-inspired garments include the 6-Day Hexagon Cardigan, the 6-Day Shrug, the 6-Day Shrug Hoodie, the 6-Day Hooded Infinity Scarf, and the 6-Day Shrug Wrap.

Details
US Terminology with UK Conversions
Finished Size: Chest 28”-56”+
Overbust 36” – 56+
Skill Level: Easy
Gauge: Varies, 17 sts and 10 rows over 4” in sc in yarn shown

Materials Needed
Yarn: This pattern works in any 1, 2, or 3 weight yarn
Yardage Estimates: Overbust up to 36” – 300-500y/275-460m
36-46” – 456-650y/411-640m
46”-56” – 600-800y/550-732m
56”+ 800-1000y/7332-914m
Hook: choose appropriate hook for yarn choice

Shown in Noro Yukata #2 Weight silk/wool/polymide blend, 787 yards/720 meters/ball
1 ball for sizes up to 46” overbust, 2 balls for sizes 46”+ overbust
G+ 4.5mm

Stitch markers 
Needle to sew in ends 

Abbreviations 
6DKB: 6-Day Kid Blanket 
beg: beginning
bet: between
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dec dc2tog: decrease double crochet two together
dec dc3tog: decrease double crochet three together
dc3tog: double crochet three together cluster
dc2tog: double crochet two together cluster
fsc: foundation single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
m: marker
pm: place marker
rep: repeat
sc: single crochet
sc3tog: single crochet three together
sdc: standing double crochet
sk: skip
sl st: slip stitch
sp(s): space(s) 
st(s): stitch(es)
yo: yarn over

US terms abbreviation	UK terms abbreviation
single crochet sc	double crochet dc
half double crochet hdc	half treble crochet htr
double crochet dc	treble crochet tr

Special Stitches

• dec dc2tog: [yo, pull up a loop in the next st, yo, pull through two loops] twice. yo and pull through all loops on the hook.
• dec dc3tog: [yo, pull up a loop in the next st, yo, pull through two loops] three times, yo and pull through all three loops on the hook.
• dc3tog: (cluster): yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, [yo, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through two loops] 2 times. yo and pull through 4 loops.
• dc2tog: (cluster): yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through two loops, yo and pull through 3 loops.
• fsc:  insert hook into the next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through one loop, yo and pull through both loops
• sc3tog: pull up a loop in each of the next 3 sts, yo and pull through all 4 loops on the hook.

Repeats
(   ) Work instructions in parentheses in the same st or sp.
[   ] Repeat everything within the brackets the indicated number of times.
* indicates beginning of repeat

Sizing
This pattern is made-to-measure and intended to fit a range of sizes. Take the following measurements to get started and try your top on frequently as you go along. See the Craft Yarn Council website for more information about sizing and how to measure for a perfect fit.

Construction

The construction of this pattern begins in the center front and alternates between rounds and rows. The granny square center begins in the round, then a bib section is worked in rows around three sides. The strap is created from foundation single crochet and is worked in the round before returning to rows along three sides to increase the side and length of the garment. Finally, the side extensions are worked separately on each side to create the back and ties.

This pattern is a collaboration with Jacqueline Yu from Jacq of Yarns. Jacqueline’s version begins with her signature 5-Petal Flower Square. If you would like the flower in the center front of your halter top instead of the 6-Day Granny Square, please visit www.jacqofyarns.com for the flower petal square pattern.

About the Row/Round Numbers

In order to provide consistency across all 6-Day pattern variations, the rows/rounds are numbered 2-7 to correspond to the original 6-Day Kid Blanket. The cluster rows are always Row or Round 2 and 3, the dc rows are always Row or Round 5 and 6, and the sc rows are always Row or Round 4 and 7.

You’ll pick up different sections of this pattern in sequence with the 6-Day Crochet sequence of stitches. We guide you along the way and it all makes sense.

Notes
Unless indicated otherwise, ch 3 at the beginning of round/row counts as 1 dc.
Stitch counts given between < >

Pattern

Ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring (magic loop not recommended).

Round 1: working into starting ring, sdc (or ch 3 counts as 1 dc, here and throughout), 2 dc, ch 3, [3 dc, ch 3] 2x, 3 dc, ch 1, join with hdc to sdc (or top of ch 3, here and throughout). <4 sets of 3 dc, 4 corner sps>

Round 2: sdc into the corner sp (around the hdc you made to join, here and throughout), 2 dc in same sp, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in each of next 3 sps, 3 dc in first sp, ch 1, join with hdc to starting sdc. <4 corners of 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc>

Round 3: ch 1, sc into the corner sp (mark this stitch), *sc in next 6 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc in ch-3 sp), repeat from * twice, sc in next 6 sts, sc in first corner sp, join with hdc to marked st. <32 sc>

Take care not to skip the first stitch after each corner, especially after the sc rounds.

Round 4: sdc into the corner sp, dc in same sp, * dc in next 8 sts, [2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc] in ch-2 sp, repeat from * twice, dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in corner sp, ch 1, join with hdc to sdc. <48 dc>

Round 5: sdc into the corner sp, dc in same sp, * dc in next 12 sts, *[2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc] in ch-3 sp, repeat from * twice, dc in next 12 sts, 2 dc in corner  sp, ch 1, join with hdc to sdc. <64 dc>

Round 6: ch 1, sc into the corner sp (mark this stitch), *sc in next 16 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc in ch-3 sp), repeat from * twice, sc in next 16 sts, sc in first corner sp, join with hdc to marked st. <72 sc>
Turn

pm in 10th sc on the bottom side.

Proceed to Bib Row 2.

Bib Rows

These rows are numbered according to the 6-Day Crochet stitch pattern. Work in increments of three rows, starting with 2 until your bib section is 1/6 of your overbust measurement, or your desired width between straps.

Before your last sc row (either 4 or 7), instead of turning your work, ch 1, rotate and work sc across neckline working into sides of sts and across sc in top of square, sc in last st, rotate and proceed to either row 4 or 7.

Bib Row 2: ch 3, dc in same sp/st. [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to 3 sts before corner, sk 3, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to st before marked sc, dc3tog, sk marked sc, dc3tog, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to one st before corner, sk 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to last 4 sts, sk 3, 2 dc in last sp/st. 
Turn

Bib Row 3: ch 3, dc in same st, 3 dc in each sp to corner, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each sp to center, dc3tog in center sp between 2 dc3tog, 3 dc in each sp to corner, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-3 sp, 3 dc each sp to end, 2 dc in top of ch 3.
Turn

If the next row is your last row, see note above.

Bib Row 4: ch 1, 2 sc in same st, [sc in each st to corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-3 sp] twice, sc in each st to end, 2 sc in top of ch 3. pm in center sc on bottom side. 
Turn

Bib Row 5: ch 3,dc in same st, [dc in each st to corner, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp] twice, dc in each st to last, 2 dc in last st.
Turn

Bib Row 6: ch 3, dc in same st, [dc in each st to corner, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in ch-3 sp] twice, dc in each st to last, 2 dc in last st.
Turn

If the next row is your last row, see note above.

Bib Row 7: ch 1, 2 sc in same st, [sc in each st to corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-3 sp] twice, sc in each st to end, 2 sc in last st. pm in center sc on bottom side.
Turn

After last sc Bib Row (either 4 or 7), do not turn. Proceed to Strap.

Strap (Worked in Rounds)

Use your head circumference + ease measurement from above as a starting point for determining your desired strap length. The more ease, the longer your strap, and the lower the top of your square/bib section (neckline) will sit. The neckline makes up part of the neck opening, and the strap will be the rest.

Strap: continuing from last row (either 4 or 7), insert hook into the first sc on the top side of the square, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through one loop, yo and pull through both loops, first fsc made. Continue fsc pulling up a loop in the bottom of the last fsc made, work to desired length of strap, adjusting so that the total number of stitches from the bottom corner of the square, up the side, across the strap, and down the other side (excluding the bottom of the square) is a multiple of 3 + 2 excluding the corner sps.

Taking care not to twist, join with a sl st to first sc. Do not turn.

Work 3 or 6 of the following rounds for desired strap width, beginning with either Round 2 or 5 depending on where you left of after your Bib Rows. If you ended the Bib Rows at Round 7, you will begin the Strap Rounds on Row 2. If you ended the Bib Rows on Round 4, You will pick up the Strap on Row 5.

Strap Round 2: (if starting with this round, you may have to sl st 1 or 2 to start in a stitch that is a multiple of 3 from the corner) ch 3, 2 dc in same st. [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to corner, sk 2, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to st before marked sc, dc3tog, sk marked sc, dc3tog, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to one st before corner, sk 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] around, sk 2, join with sl st to top of ch 3.

Strap Round 3: sl st in next 2 sts and sp between 3 dc, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, 3 dc in each sp to corner, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each sp to dc3tog, dc3tog bet 2 dc3tog, 3 dc in each sp to corner, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each sp around, join with sl st to top of ch 3.

Strap Round 4: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-3 sps. Join with sl st to first st. pm in center sc in bottom side.

Strap Round 5: ch 3, dc in each st around, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sps. Join with sl st to ch 3.

Strap Round 6: ch 3, dc in each st around, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sps. Join with sl st to ch 3.

Strap Round 7: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-3 sps. Join with sl st to first st. pm in center sc in bottom side.

When Strap is the desired width, end with Round 4 or 7. Fasten off. Proceed to Side Body Section.

Side Body

Mark the strap on each side where you would like the side arm opening to begin. This is a crucial point in the garment, and trying on at this point is highly recommended. The side body can begin anywhere from slightly above the neckline to approximately 2/3 from the bottom of the work to the top of the strap. 

The higher you start the side body, the more fabric you will create along the side bust area, which will require shaping for larger sizes. Follow the optional instructions for decreasing on Edge Round 1 along the edge of the Side Body to create more shaping  on the sides if needed.

The marked stitch on each side should be a multiple of 3 + 2 from the bottom corner.

Join with a slip stitch at either mark and work sets of 3 rows in sequence following the last round you completed for the strap. If you ended the Strap rounds at Round 7, you will begin the Side Body on Row 2. If you ended the Strap on Round 4, You will pick up the Side Body on Row 5.

Side Body Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc in first st), [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to corner, sk 2, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to st before marker, dc3tog in st before marker, sk marked st, dc3tog in next st, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to corner, sk 2, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to last 3 sts, sk 2, dc in last st.
Turn

Side Body Row 3: ch 3, sk first sp, 3 dc in each sp to corner, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each sp to dc3tog, dc3tog in sp between 2 dc3tog, 3 dc in each sp to corner, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each sp to last, sk last sp, dc in top of ch 3.
Turn.

Side Body Row 4: ch 1, sc in same st, sk 1, [sc in each st to corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-3 sp] twice, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sk 1, sc in last st.
Turn

Side Body Row 5: ch 3  (counts as dc in first st), sk 1, [dc in next and each st to corner, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sp] twice, dc to last 2 sts, sk 1, dc in last st.
Turn

Side Body Row 6: ch 3 (counts as dc in first st), sk 1 , [dc in next and each st to corner, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sp] twice, dc to last 2 sts, sk 1, dc in last st.
Turn

Side Body Row 7: ch 1, sc in same st, sk 1, [sc in each st to corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-3 sp] twice, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sk 1, sc in last st. Pm in center sc in bottom side.
Turn

Continue these rows in sequence until your top has reached the desired length, and is no wider than 3/4 of your waist circumference. End on Row 4 or 7.

If ending on row 4, fasten off. 

Proceed to Side Extension Rows.

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Side Extension Rows

Work the following side extension rows on each side of the top until you reach 7 sts left, then work the Tie rows. 

Begin Extension Rows picking up in sequence from where you left off on the Side Body Rows. If you ended Side Body Rows on Row 7, you will begin the Side Extension on Row 2. If you ended the Side Body on Row 4, you will pick up the Side Extension on Row 5.

Side Extension Row 2: (If this is your first row of the side extension, join at the top edge of last side body row) ch 3 (counts as dc in first st), [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to corner, sk 2, 2 dc in last st/sp.
Turn

Side Extension Row 3: ch 3, 3 dc in each sp to last sp, dc in last sp.
Turn.

Side Extension Row 4: ch 1,  sc3tog, sc in each st to end. 
Turn

Side Extension Row 5: (If this is your first row of the side extension, join at the bottom edge of the top) ch 3, dc in each st to last 3 sts, dec dc3tog over last 3 sts.
Turn

Side Extension Row 6: ch 2, (counts as dc in first st), dec dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in each st to end.
Turn

Side Extension Row 7: ch 1, sc to last 3 sts, sc3tog over last 3 sts.

Continue in pattern for Side Extension Rows until you have 8 sts. Proceed to Tie.

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Tie

Continuing in row sequence from where you left off, work Tie rows for approximately 6”. 

Tie Row 2: ch 3, dc in next st, sk 2, 3 dc in next st, sk 2, 2 dc in last st. <7 sts>
Turn

Tie Row 3: ch 3, 3 dc in each of next 2 sps, dc in last st. <8 sts>
Turn

Tie Row 4: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sts, sc in top of ch 3. <8 sts>
Turn 

Tie Row 5: ch 3, dc in each st to end. <8 sts>
Turn

Tie Row 6: ch 3, dc in each st to end. <8 sts>
Turn

Tie Row 7: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sts, sc in top of ch 3. <8 sts>
Turn

Once the tie is approximately 6’ long. Proceed to rows 5b-7b.

Row 5b: ch 3, [dec dc2tog, dc] 2x, sx in last st. <6 sts>
Turn

Row 6b: ch  3, dec dc2tog twice, dc in last st. <4 sts>
Turn

Row 7b: ch 1, sk 1, sc3tog. 

Fasten off. Repeat side extension and Tie on second side. Do not fasten off on the second side.

Proceed to Edge.

Edge

Round 1: ch 1, rotate work, sc around the entire top, working into the sides of rows on the Ties and Side Body/Extensions and into the sts on the Strap and along the bottom. To shape the Side Body, work (sc, sc2tog) along Side Body Rows as needed. Join with sl st to first st.

Round 2: [ch 2, sk 2, sc in next st] around the top, sl st into first ch-2 sp. 

Round 3: ch 1, 6 sc in first ch-2 sp, [sc 1 in next ch-2 sp, 6 sc  in next ch-2 sp] around, sl st to first sc. 

Fasten off. 

Weave in all ends and block. 

Thank you to the amazing crocheters who tested this pattern 

Aftan H, Angelique Acosta, Julie Cooper, Victoria Dion, Tere Erdman, Peta Gehrmann, Eva Jarell, Kiana Lefleche, Dominique Meyers, Courtney Shepherd, and Angie Yi.

© Beth McKee Elliott/Betty McKnit®
www.bettymcknit.com