Never Not Twisted Mobius

A mobius, if you don’t know, is a one-sided, three-dimensional object, which makes this a very fun and interesting project to crochet. You could easily create a mobius by crocheting a flat strip and twisting it one-half turn and seaming it up, but this way, the mobius is created in the round and is really twisted, nerdy crochet fun.

Starting with a length of chain, you will work on both sides of it and watch your scarf get wider very quickly from the inside out. You can never untwist it, which drives my daughter crazy, hence the name, Never Not Twisted. The unique half-twist gives your scarf the perfect shape and drape – which is why people knit and crochet mobiuses to wear.

This pattern is more of a recipe for the mobius than an actual pattern, although I’ll give details for exactly how I made three sizes of this wonderful scarf shown in the photos and videos on this page. The technique to get your work half-twisted in a mobius shape is the most important element of this pattern; you can actually use any weight of yarn and any stitch you like.

Speaking of stitches, I’ve done three different ones for each different size. You can mix stitches and sizes, or use a different stitch altogether.

You can use virtually any stitch on this pattern, once the twist is set up.

I call the sizes one-iter, two-iter, and three-iter, which is one of those made-up family words that my daughter invented when she was little. Handy, isn’t it?

ch = chain
dc = double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
blo = back loop only
rsc – reverse single crochet
3ldc-f = third loop double crochet front
3ldc-b = third loop double crochet back

Special stitches:

1) 3ldc-f = third loop double crochet front

This stitch is similar to third loop hdc (camel stitch). The third loop looks like a bar between the two double crochet stitches, below the two loops you normally work under when working double crochet.

Yarn over, insert hook from the bottom beneath the third loop of the dc stitch, pull up a loop, complete as you would a normal double crochet. (see video at 10:15).

2) 3ldc-b = third loop double crochet back

Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch as 3ldc-f, but this time you’re going to swing around to the back of the work and insert the hook from top to bottom underneath the third loop (see video at 19:00) pull up a loop, complete as you would a normal double crochet.

3) dc between the stitches – this is worked like a regular double crochet, but you insert the hook between the double crochet stitches and pull up a loop, complete like a normal dc. (see video at 23:30)

One-iter (wraps around once)

Start with a 30” chain

Finished Measurements:
30” around
6” wide

Shown in Lion Brand Woolease Thick and Quick Metalics
Color: Starlight
100 yards of any #5 or #6 Bulky Weight or Super Bulky Weight yarn
8-10 mm hook

Two-iter (wraps twice)

Start with a 60” chain

Finished Measurements:
60” around
8” wide

Shown in Lion Brand Woolease Thick and Quick
Color: Fisherman Cream, Grass

300 yards of any Bulky Weight yarn
8-10 mm hook

Three-iter (wraps three times)
Start with a 90” chain

Finished Measurements:
90” around
8” wide

Shown in Caron Tea Cakes, Oolong (no longer available)
Loops and Threads Copenhagen shown in the tutorial video.

450 yards of any #5 Bulky Weight yarn
8-10 mm hook

Chain 62 (or any number that gives you a 30”)

Ch 100 (or any number that gives you a 60” ch)

Ch 150 (or any number that gives you a 90” starting ch)

Starting from the third chain from the hook, dc in each chain across.

Bring the beginning of the work around as if you are going to join in the round, with the first dc aligned next to the last one just worked.

Take the beginning end of the work and turn it over to create a 1/2 twist. The bottom of the work will be aligned on both sides, but the top of the work of the beginning end will be below the working end (see video at 4:25)

Begin working into the bottom of the starting ch, dc in the bottom of each stitch until you reach the very first stitch.

Sl st into the top of the first dc (2 turning ch do not count)

Row 2: ch 1, sc through blo across. Sl st in first st to close the round.

Round 3: ch 2 (does not count as dc) dc through blo in each st around. Sl st in first st to close the round.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until your work measures 6”, or the width you desire for your scarf.

Begin working into the bottom of the starting ch, dc in the bottom of each stitch until you reach the very first stitch.

Sl st into the top of the first dc (2 turning ch do not count)

Row 2: ch 3, 3ldc-f around to first dc in the row, sl st to close the round.

Row 3: ch 3, 3ldc-b around to first dc in the row, sl st to close the round.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the work measures 8” or the width you desire

For this stitch, we don’t work into the bottom of the foundation chain, instead work between the double crochet stitches. Work 1 dc in each space between the dc stitches of the row below until you come around to the first dc you made.

Sl st into the top of the first dc (2 turning ch do not count)

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count), working between the stitches, dc in every space in the row below, sl st to close the round.

Repeat row 2 until your scarf is 8” wide, or the width of your choice.

You can use virtually any stitch on this pattern, once the twist is set up.

Work one round of rsc around, if you like. Weave in all ends.

This pattern is the intellectual property of Betty McKnit/Beth Elliott, and it is protected by copyright. Publishing corrections, translations, written or video tutorials, or variations of this pattern, online or elsewhere, without written permission from the owner is a violation of  copyright.

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