A crochet pattern by Betty McKnit
Based on the 6-Day Kid Blanket and 6-Day Star Blanket
Introduction
This variation of the classic 6-Day Kid Blanket works from the center out into the shape of a fourteen-pointed star. It has an exciting textured stripe called the Ridgy Didge. The Ridgy Didge Stripe was conceptualized by Diane Kagay, Erin Boom Iske and Stephanie Pundt-Werner. Sue McKinnon and Katie Poli suggested the name.
This fun and easy pattern is adaptable, perfect for crocheters of all levels of experience. It is easy enough for new crocheters and interesting and addictive for the more seasoned. It is just like the 6-Day Superstar Blanket, but has an adaptation of Round 6 to create a textured ridge. This blanket can be made in virtually any yarn, can be striped any number of ways, and you can make a blanket of almost any size you like. It has a super simple one round border.
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What’s the difference between this blanket and the 6-Day Ridgy Didge Star, and 6-Day Ridgy Didge Supernova Blankets?
- The 6-Day Ridgy Didge Star blanket has seven points and is based on the 6-Day Star Blanket, the easiest of all the 6-Day blankets. It has eight setup rows and is repetitive. I suggest first timers and new crocheters start with the 6-Day Star or Ridgy Didge Star and then attempt one of the other variations.
- The 6-Day Ridgy Didge Superstar is based on the 6-Day Superstar, has 14 points and comes out almost circular with chevrons. It has a more challenging setup, but once the setup is complete it is repetitive (like the 6-Day Star).
- The 6-Day Ridgy Didge Supernova is similar to the 6-Day Supernova and has a total of 14 points: 7 larger points and 7 smaller points. It is the most complicated of all the star blankets, although not difficult to make, it is not mindlessly repetitive. Try the Star and Superstar first and then try one of the Supernovas once you’re ready for a challenge.
- There are also shawl, poncho, and holiday tree skirt versions of the 6-Day Star, Superstar, and Supernova Blankets.
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Details:
US Terminology (UK Conversions)
Skill Level: Easy
Gauge: varies depending on your yarn.
Finished Size: Variable, blanket shown is 40” across
This pattern is adaptable to the type and amount of yarn you have.
Lovey: 12 rounds
40” Baby Blanket: approximately three pattern repeats
60” Full Size Blanket: approximately five pattern repeats
Materials:
Shown in Stylecraft Special DK in Color A: White, Color B: Toy, Color C: Lincoln and Color D: Spice (one ball of each).
Approximate yardage for 2 common sizes and weights:
- For DK or #3 weight yarn you will need approximately 1200 yards for a 40” baby blanket and 2000 yards for a 60” throw-sized blanket.
- For Worsted or #4 weight yarn you will need approximately 2000 yards for a 40” baby blanket and 2400 yards for a 60” throw-sized blanket.
Hooks: 5.5 – 6 mm for 3 weight and 6.5 – 7mm for 4 weight yarn.
You will need a much larger hook than you might normally use for your chose yarn weight in order to alleviate curling. I suggest starting with a hook .5-1 mm larger than the size suggested on the yarn label, and have two larger hooks on hand, .5 mm and 1 mm larger than that. Start with the smallest hook and if the points of your star begin to curl in the startup rows, increase your hook by 5 mm.
Lay your blanket down after each round and make sure it is laying flat. It’s usually okay to increase your hook size after the first round in which you experience curling without ripping back.
If your work ruffles you have most likely made a mistake somewhere and added too many stitches. In my experience it is unusual to see a blanket ruffling because the hook is too big. It’s almost always because the crocheter misread the pattern and added too many stitches.
Abbreviations
6DKB: 6-Day Kid Blanket
6DSB: 6-Day Star Blanket
bet: between
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dc2tog: double crochet 2 together cluster
dc3tog: double crochet 3 together cluster
FPdc: front post double crochet
rsc: reverse single crochet
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
sp(s): space or spaces
st(s): stitch(es)
| US terms abbreviation | UK terms abbreviation |
| single crochet sc | double crochet dc |
| half double crochet hdc | half treble crochet htr |
| double crochet dc | treble crochet tr |
Special Stitches:
- dec dc2tog: [yo, pull up a loop in the next st/sp, yo, pull through two loops] twice. yo and pull through all loops on the hook.
- dec dc3tog: [yo, pull up a loop in the next st/sp, yo, pull through two loops] three times, yo and pull through all three loops on the hook.
- Insert the hook from the back to the front: Bring your yarn to the front and take your hook around to the back of the work as it faces you. Insert the hook into the stitch from the back side so that it comes out the right side, yarn over in front of the work and pull the loop to the back.
- Standing FPdc: At the start of a new round with a new color, place a slip knot on the hook and holding it in place, work a FPdc in the starting stitch as indicated.
Repeats
( ) Work stitches in parentheses in the same st or sp.
[ ] Repeat everything within the brackets the indicated number of times.
* Indicates beginning of repeat
** Indicates end of repeat on last repeat only.
Stitch Counts
- Stitch counts between < >
- Counts for subsequent rounds are given in parentheses like so: first repeat (second repeat, third repeat) etc.
- Unless indicated otherwise, ch 3 counts as dc.
- If your stitch counts are off, avoid the temptation to self-correct without understanding your mistake. The pattern should work out as written.
Notes
Read the entire pattern before you begin.
Does it really only take 6 Days to make?
All of my patterns that use the same six rows alternating rows of sc, dc, and clusters, with or without chevrons, is named 6-Day Crochet. The name of this pattern comes from the original 6-Day Kid Blanket, which was toddler sized and made with chunky yarn, and took me an easy six days to make. This variation uses the same stitches as that original pattern, but you can use any yarn and make it any size you want, so whether you can meet the six day deadline will depend on several factors. It is 100% possible to complete a large blanket in six days. You will love how fast the 6-Day Star Blanket works up.
Tips for Completing in Six Days
To complete this project in six days, it will depend on how fast you crochet, what kind of yarn you use, and what size blanket you want to make. Most crocheters will need to work 2-4 hours each day. On the first day, do the Setup Rounds and the first repeat, after that do at least one repeat per day. Blankets with more than six pattern repeats will probably take longer than six days, or more than 4 hours per day to complete.
First Timers
If this is your first time making a 6-Day Star Blanket or 6-Day Crochet project, welcome to the club. You will need to read this whole pattern and follow instructions here for the best possible outcome. You may find my YouTube tutorials for the 6-Day Superstar Blanket helpful when making this pattern, however there are no tutorials for this specific pattern yet.
If something isn’t working or your counts are off, resist the temptation to just keep going without understanding where your mistake was made. This pattern should work out as written, if it doesn’t you’ll only set yourself up for future frustration if you just fudge it and keep going. Help is available in my Facebook Group and Membership Community, so if you get stuck come find me there.
This is an easy pattern but it is not a beginner pattern. I assume you already know how to chain, single crochet, and double crochet, and I don’t teach those skills in this pattern. There are plenty of resources online and elsewhere to learn those beginning crochet skills, so even very new crocheters can make a 6-Day Star Blanket.
About the Row/Round Numbers
There are dozens of 6-Day Crochet patterns, and in order to provide consistency across all of the 6DKB variations, I’ve numbered the rows to correspond to the original 6-Day Kid Blanket. The cluster rows are always Row or Round 2 and 3, the dc rows are always Row or Round 5 and 6, and the sc rows are always Row or Round 4 and 7. This makes it easy to adapt any pattern to the many ways there are to stripe your 6-Day Kid Blanket.
You will be guided to work the rows in the proper order; don’t let the numbers throw you off or overthink a change in the sequence.
You will start with eleven Setup Rounds which you will only work once. After that, you will proceed to Rounds 4-7, then 2-7 and repeat Rounds 2-7 until your blanket reaches the size you would like it to be. Do not repeat the Setup Rounds and don’t let the sequence throw you off. You’ll be directed where to go next.
About the Ridgy Didge
The special textured ridge is created by turning the work, changing colors, and working FPdc. The ridge will appear on alternate sides of the work creating a blanket with no right or wrong side. If you prefer to have all the ridges on one side of the work, do not turn at all and use BPdc (Back Post double crochet) instead of FPdc.
When changing colors on the Ridge Round, take care to join the new color one dc after the sk 2 in the bottom of the valley.
It is possible to make this blanket using a solid color or cake yarn so that you don’t have to change colors or weave in ends. Additional instructions are given for continuous work for crocheters using solid color or cake yarn.
Changing colors
This pattern gives color changes every three rounds. When changing colors, fasten off the old color. Rotate the work and begin the next color with a standing stitch in a different valley.
When changing colors between Setup Rounds 7 and 8 and Rounds 5 and 6 for the Ridgy Didge Round, you will also turn the work over. The ridge round will appear on alternating sides of the blanket. You will only turn after the first dc round of each repeat (Setup Round 7 and Round 5).
This pattern also works as a solid color or with cake yarn, however, the first 6-9 rows of this version look best when the yarn does not change colors in the middle of a round. If you are using cake yarn, you may want to purchase an extra cake so you can control colors for at least the first few rounds. After the center is complete, mid-row color changes are not obvious.
You will not need to fasten off and re-join if you are using cake yarn. Follow the instructions “For Continuous Color/Cake Yarn Crocheters Only” tips to continue working without fastening off.
Joining the rounds
Take care that you do not create extra stitches when you join your rounds, especially the sc rounds. I suggest using stitch markers to mark the first and last stitches of each round to avoid working into the sl st or ch 1 at the start of the sc rounds.
If you are working continuously (solid or cake yarn, and not changing colors deliberately) there will be times when you will be asked to insert the hook from the back to the front when joining with a slip stitch. See Special Stitches for an explanation on how to do this.
Join one of my online communities to knit and crochet along with friends, get help with pattern questions, show off your makes, and access tons of free resources for making 6-Day Crochet and other Betty McKnit designs.
Video Tutorials
This pattern does not have video tutorials on YouTube yet, however there are crochet alongs and other tutorials posted for the 6-Day Superstar that you may find helpful when making this pattern. The videos are meant to help you understand this pattern, but they are not intended to replace this pattern or be used without it.
Community Support
I am available on multiple social media platforms. The best way to get support is through my Facebook community dedicated to helping crocheters with the 6-Day Crochet Projects, loaded with free resources and people to answer your questions.
Join my membership community The Betty McKnitiverse for bonus content, exclusive 6-Day Star Blanket variations not published elsewhere (including a 16-point 6-Day Superstar), and ask your questions directly during one of my many community zoom calls.
Begin Pattern
With Color A and smallest hook,ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring (magic ring not recommended).
Setup Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout), 13 dc into ring, join with sl st to top of ch 3. <14 dc>
Setup Round 2: ch 3, dc in same st. 2 dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. <28 dc>
Setup Round 3: ch 3, dc in next st, *ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, ch 1 **, dc in next 2 sts, repeat from * ending last repeat at **, join with sl st to top of ch 3. <28 dc, 7 ch-3 sps, 7 ch-1 sps>
Setup Round 4: sl st in next dc and ch-3 sp, (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in same sp, *dc3tog in ch 1 sp, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, repeat from * around, dc3tog in last ch-1 sp, join with sl st to top of ch 3. <14 3-dc clusters, 7 ch-3 sps, 7 dc3tog>
If you experience curling during the setup rounds, change to a .5 – 1 mm larger hook. Remember to lay your work down after every round and admire it, and while you’re admiring, check for curling. If you do not experience curling, you do not have to change hooks.
Setup Round 5: sl st into the gap just below your hook, between the dc3tog and the 3 dc, (ch 2, dc2tog) in same sp, *(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, **dc3tog in next 2 sps, repeat from * ending last repeat at **, dc3tog in last sp, join with sl st to top of dc2tog cluster (be sure to join in the top of the cluster and not to the ch 2). <14 3-dc clusters, 7 ch-3 sps, 14 dc3tog>
Setup Round 6: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, working 3 sc in ch-3 sps. Join with sl st to first sc (be sure to join to the top of the sc and not the sl st, here and throughout).<77 sc>
Setup Round 7: sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in next 3 sts, *(5 dc in center sc from row below), dc in next 4 sts,** sk 2, dc in next 4 sts, repeat from * ending last repeat at ** sk 2, join with sl st to top of ch 3. <91 dc>
Fasten off.
For Continuous Color/Cake Yarn Crocheters Only: If you’re using one color or cake yarn, insert the hook from the back of the work and join with sl st from to top of ch 3. Turn, but do not fasten off.
Change to Color B
Setup Round 8: Join with standing FPdc to second dc after any sk 2 in any valley, (for solid color or cake yarn, sl st in next dc, sl st around the FP of the next dc, ch 3,) FPdc in next 4 sts, *5 dc in next st (should be center dc in round below) FPdc in next 5 sts, sk 2,** FPdc in next 5 sts, repeat from * ending last repeat at **, join with sl st to top of standing FPdc. <105 sts>
Tip: Mark your last FPdc.
Setup Round 10: sl st in the next 3 sts, ch 2, dc2tog cluster in same st, *ch 1, sk 3, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in center sc from row below, ch 1, sk 3, dc3tog, ch 1, sk 3, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, ch 1, sk 3,** dc3tog in next st, repeat from * around, ending with **, join with sl st to top of starting dc2tog. <28 3-dc clusters, 14 dc3tog>
Setup Round 11: sl st into next ch-1 sp, ch 2, dc2tog in same sp, *(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, ** dc3tog in next 2 sps (one before and one after the dc3tog in the row below), repeat from * around ending with ** dc3tog in the last sp, join with sl st to first dc2tog. <28 3-dc clusters, 28 dc3tog>
Setup Rounds complete (do not repeat them). Proceed to Round 4.
We are beginning the 6-Day Crochet repeating rounds 2-7, picking up at Round 4. Don’t let the change in sequence throw you off. Round 4 is next.
Round 4: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, working 3 sc in ch-3 sps. Join with sl st to first sc. <8 (14, 20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 56, 62) sc between each peak, 3 sc in each ch-3 sp>
On subsequent sc rounds, the number of scs between the peaks will increase by 6. The numbers in parenthesis show the number of scs on each subsequent repeat of the pattern.
Round 5: sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in next 3 (6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30) sts, *(5 dc in center sc in peak), dc in next 4 (7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 28, 31) sts, sk 2, ** dc in next 4 (7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 28, 31) sts, repeat from *, ending last repeat at **, join with sl st to top of ch 3.
<8 (14, 20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 56, 62) dc between each peak, 5 dc in each peak st>
13, 16) dc, sk 2, 4 dc, repeat from *, 4 (7, 10, 13, 16) dc, join with sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off.
For Continuous Color/Cake Yarn Crocheters Only: If you’re using one color or cake yarn, insert the hook from the back of the work and join with sl st from to top of ch 3. Turn, do not fasten off.
Change to Color C
Round 6: Join with standing FPdc to second dc after any sk 2 in any valley, (for cake yarn, sl st in next dc, sl st around the FP of the next dc, ch 3) FPdc in next 4 (7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 28, 31) sts, *(5 dc in center dc in peak), FPdc in next 5 (8, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32) sts, sk 2, ** FPdc in next 5 (8, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32) sts, repeat from *, ending at **, join with sl st to top of standing FPdc. <10 (16, 22, 28, 34, 40, 46, 52, 58, 64) dc between each peak, 5 dc in each peak st>
On subsequent rounds 5 and 6, the number of dcs on either side of the mountain will increase by 3. The numbers in parenthesis show the number of dcs on each subsequent repeat of the pattern.
Round 7: ch 1, sc in same st and each st around, making 2 sc in each center of 5 dc in the peak. (Since we are working on all right sides and not turning, the top of the center dc is above and slightly to the right of the center stitch). Join with sl st to first sc. <14 (20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 56, 62, 68) between each peak and 2 sc in each peak st>
Round 2: ch 2, dc2tog cluster in same st (mark this st), *ch 1, sk 4, [3 dc in next st, sk 2] 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) x, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in second of 2 sc in peak, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) x, ch 1, sk 4, ** dc3tog in next st, repeat from * , ending last repeat at **, join with sl st to top of starting dc2tog. <56 (84, 112, 140, 168, 196, 224, 252, 280, 308) 3 dc clusters, 14 ch-3 sps, 14 dc3tog>
Round 3: sl st in next sp, ch 2, dc2tog in same sp (mark this st), *3 dc in each of next 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) sps, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each of next 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) sps, ** dc3tog in next 2 ch-1 sps (one before and one after the dc3tog in the round below), repeat from * ending last repeat at **, dc3tog in last sp. Join with sl st to marked dc2tog. <56 (84, 112, 140, 168, 196, 224, 252, 280, 308) 3 dc clusters, 14 ch-3 sps, 28 dc3tog>
Repeat Rounds (4, 5, 6, 7, 2, 3) in that order turning the work and changing colors after Round 5 each time and changing colors in sequence with Color D being next and then changing in order A, B, C, D etc. Work approximately 3 repeats for baby blanket size, and 5 repeats for a throw size, or continue to the size you desire. Repeat round 4 once more. Fasten off. Continue to Edge.
Edge
Join Color D (or next color in sequence) in new in any valley in the center sc.ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in same st, *sk 2, sc in next st, sk 2, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next st, repeat from * around, ending with sc, sk 2, join with sl st in first sc.
Since this pattern is adaptable, and you may have more or less stitches around the edge of your blanket than I do, adjust your skips so that the (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) lands in the center of the valley and also on the top of the peak. Skipping additional stitches in the valleys and fewer at the peaks will help the edge keep its chevron shape.
Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Ridgy Didge Concept by Diane Kagay. Pattern tested by Angela Childress, Lecisha Ellison, Mary Wanamaker, and Bex White.
This pattern is original and the intellectual property of Beth McKee Elliott aka Betty McKnit. This pattern, The 6-Day Kid Blanket, “6DKB,” 6-Day Star Blanket, “6DSB,” and all derivative works are protected by copyright. Publishing translations, corrections, variations, or tutorials of this pattern, online or elsewhere without written permission from the owner is a violation of copyright.
Items created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale with credit to Betty McKnit in your listing. Mass production is not permitted.
Edging was inspired by ideas I found in Edie Eckman’s books “Around the Corner Crochet Borders” and “Every Which Way Crochet Borders.”
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