6DKB Pocket Shawl
A 6-Day Kid Blanket Variation
Crochet Pattern by Betty McKnit
Concept by Oldboiler Robo
This project is for a pocket shawl in the 6-Day Kid Blanket pattern. The shawl is created with a straight start, and the chevrons are built up from the chain. The pockets are worked separately and attached by working the pocket and shawl edges together when adding the border edge.
Finished length: 60” – 72” (easily adjustable)
Width: 16” – 18″
This project can be worked in DK, Worsted, or Bulky weight yarn.
(Shown in Lion Brand Mandala – Dragon)
DK (3)
20 oz/1700 yards
H/5 mm hook
Worsted (4)
30 oz/2000 yards
I/5.5 mm hook
Bulky (5)
1000 yards
M/8 mm hook
A word about sizing:
This pattern is easily resized. Work the main body of the shawl to a length matching the height or wingspan of the wearer. The border and fringe will add additional length and will approximately double the width of the work. If you would like a wider or narrower finished project, you can pick and choose which border rows you want to eliminate or repeat. Adding points to the center section to make the shawl wider will affect the pocket width as well, be sure to read the entire pattern before you decide to make adjustments.
First time making the 6-Day Kid Blanket Pattern?
This is a great first 6DKB project as it is based on the swatch we recommend everyone start with. The swatch pattern is here and videos to follow are my YouTube channel.
Color Changes:
This pattern does not give color changes. The 6-Day Kid Blanket can take on many different looks depending on where you change colors. Here is an article to help you decide how to stripe your shawl. Cake yarn looks amazing in this pattern as well, choose your favorite color way and “let it flow.”
Abbreviations & special stitches made:
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dc3tog: (NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH dec dc3tog).
Work dc3tog into one stitch – not over three stitches
[yarn over, pull up a loop, pull through two loops] 3 times. Yarn over, and pull through all 4 loops on the hook. (Be sure to pull up a loop in the same stitch every time.) dc3tog complete.
picot: sc, ch 3, sc into side of last sc made.
rep: repeat
sc: single crochet
sk: skip
sp(s): space(s)
This blanket starts with a straight edge. I recommend making your chain with a hook .5 mm larger than the hook you plan to work your project with and switch to the larger hook for Setup Row 1.
Chain 30
Setup Row 1: starting in second ch from hook, sc across.
Turn
Switch to smaller hook.
From this row forward, work the last stitch of each row by inserting your hook from the back of the work to the front in order to alleviate the edges of your work curling.
Setup Row 2: ch 1, 5sc, *6 hdc, 7sc, repeat from * to last 5 sts, 5 sc.
Turn
Setup Row 3: ch 1, 3 sc, *3 hdc, 2dc, ch 2, 2 dc, 3 hdc, sc, sl st, sc, repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3 sc.
Turn
Setup Row 4: ch 1, 3 sc, *3 hdc, 2 dc, [dc, ch 1, dc] in ch 2 sp, 2 dc, 3 hdc, sc, sl st, sc, repeat from * to last 3 sts, 3 sc.
Turn
Setup Row 5: ch 1, sc, sk 1, 7 sc, *3 sc in ch sp, 7 sc, sk 1, 7 sc, repeat from * to last 9 9 sts, 7 sc, sk 1, sc
Turn
The next 6 rows are from the 6-Day Kid Blanket. The row counts are 2-7 in order to match the original pattern. Proceed to Row 2 from here:
6DKB Row 2: ch 3, sk first 3 sc (the sc on the end of the row, the one below your turning chain counts as 1)
[3dc in next sc, sk next 2 sc] twice, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] into next sc
*sk next 2 sc, 3dc into next sc, sk next 2 sc, dc3tog
sk next 4 sc, dc3tog, sk next 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc, sk next 2 sc
[ 3 dc, ch3, 3 dc] into next sc; rep from * to last 9 sc
sk next 2 sc [3 dc into next sc, sk next 2 sc] twice, 1 dc into last sc.
Turn
6DKB Row 3: ch 3, sk sp between turning ch and next 3-dc group, 3 dc into each of next 2 sp, [3dc, ch3, 3dc] into next ch-3 sp
*3 dc into next sp, dc3tog into next sp
sk next sp, dc3tog into next sp, 3 dc into next sp, [3dc, ch3, 3dc] into next ch- 3 sp
rep from * to last 3 sps, 3 dc into each of next 2 sps
1 dc into sp between last 3 dc group and turning ch.
Turn
6DKB Row 4: ch 1, sc into first dc of the row (the one right below your turning chain)
sk next dc, 1 sc into each of next 8 dc
*3 sc into next ch 3 sp, 1 sc into each of next 14 sts
repeat from * to last ch-3 sp, 3 sc into last ch-3 sp
1 sc into each of next 8 dc, sk next dc, 1 sc into 3rd st of ch 3.
Turn
6DKB Row 5: Ch 3, sk first 2 sc of the row below (the sc your turning chain is coming out of counts as the first one). 1 dc into each of next 8 sc
*3 dc into next sc (you should be working these into the center stitch of the 3 sc. If not, you may have skipped incorrectly in the beginning of the row.) 1 dc into each of next 7 sc
sk next 2 sc, 1 dc into each of next 7 sc
rep from * to last 11 sc, 3 dc into next sc, 1 dc into each of next 8 sc
sk next 2 sc, 1 dc into the turning chain from the row below.
Turn
6DKB Row 6: Ch 3, sk first 2 dc in the row below (the dc below your turning chain counts as 1)
1 dc into each of next 8 dc
*3 dc into next dc (you should be working into center stitch of 3 dc)
1 dc into each of next 7 dc, sk next 2 dc, 1 dc into each of next 7 dc
rep from * to last 10 dc
3 dc into next dc, 1 dc into each of next 8 dc, sk last dc, 1 dc into 3rd st of ch 3.
Turn
6DKB Row 7: Ch 1, sc into first dc (the same one the turning chain is coming out of), sk 1 dc
1 sc into each dc along row to last dc
sk last dc, 1 sc into 3rd ch of ch 3.
Turn
Repeat 6DKB Rows 2-7 until the work reaches the desired finished length.
It seems like a good length will be somewhere around the height or wingspan of the wearer (often these measurements are pretty close to the same). I stopped at 60” and I am 60” tall. The border and fringe will add additional length (and width).
Repeat 6DKB rows 2-4 once more.
Square the top edge:
Square off Row 1: ch 3, counting the stitch under the turning chain, sk 2, 3 dc, 3 hdc, 2 sc, sl st, 2 sc
*3 hdc, 2 dc, sk 2, 2dc, 3 hdc, 2 sc, slst, 2 sc, repeat from * to last 8 sts, 3 hdc, 3 dc, sk 1, dc in last sc.
Turn
Square off Row 2: ch 3, counting the stitch under the turning chain, sk 2, 3 dc, 3 hdc, sc, sl st, sc, *3 hdc, 2 dc, sk 2, 2 dc, 3 hdc, sc, slst, sc, repeat from * to last 8 sts, 3 hdc, 3 dc, sk 1, dc in last sc.
Turn
Square off Row 3: ch 3, counting the stitch below the turning chain sk 2, 3 hdc, 7 sc, *6 hdc, 7 sc* until 5 st remain, 3 hdc, sk 1, hdc in last st.
Turn
Square off Row 4: ch 1, sc in same st and in each st across.
Fasten off.
Pockets (make 2)
Work pockets using the same pattern for the scarft hrough rows 2-7 of the 6DKB rows, repeat rows 2-4, then proceed to the Square Off Rows 1-4.
Do not fasten off. Work a ribbed edge on the pocket as follows:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsEPLeUSwmg
Ch 7
Turn and work in towards the pocket edge.
Pocket Edge Row 2: sk 1, 6 sc. Working into the sc sts of Pocket Edge Row 1, sl st in the next two sts.
Turn
Pocket Edge Row 3: Sk 2 sl sts, sc across, working into the BLO.
Turn
Pocket Edge 4: Work as Row 2 working into the BLO.
Turn
Repeat Pocket Edge Row 3 and 4 until the edge reaches the last pocket row.
Pocket border: (in color you will be using for Shawl Edge Row 1, work a row of sc beginning at the top left corner of the pocket, work a row of sc down the side of the pocket using the turning chains and the dc/sc stitches as foundation chains, working under 2 threads of each stitch and leaving one thread below. Check your work often to make sure it is lying flat and adjust the number of stitches as needed. Work 3 sc in the corner, continue sc across the bottom of the pocket, work 3 sc in the corner, and continue up the side working under the turning ch and dc and sc sts as before.
Fasten off.
Repeat for second pocket.
Work Shawl Border
If you would like a wider border, you can repeat rows, and if you would like a narrower edge, you can eliminate some of the edge rows. The border rows are based on the 6-Day Kid Blanket pattern.
Shawl Border Row 1: Attach yarn in any stitch along the side of the work, work a row of sc around the entire piece. On the side edges, work into the turning ch and dc stitches as before, and put 3 sc in each corner. Fasten off.
Attach each pocket to the ends of the scarf with stitch markers, paper clips, or pieces of scrap yarn, being sure to line up the two pieces stitch for stitch. Attach the pockets by working the Shawl Edge Row 2 through both layers of the pocket and the shawl body.
Shawl Border Row 2: Join yarn in any side stitch, ch 3, dc in each st around, 5 dc in corner stitches, join w sl st to first st.
Shawl Border Row 3: ch 3, 2 dc in same st, * sk 2, 3 dc in next st, repeat from * to corner, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in corner st, repeat from *. Join with sl st to first ch 3.
Shawl Border Row 4: sl st in next 2 st and sp between 3 dc groups, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, * sk 2, 3 dc in next sp, repeat from * to corner, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in corner ch 3 sp, repeat from *. Join with sl st to first ch 3.
Shawl Border Row 5: ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around, working 3 sc in each corner. Join with sl st to first sc.
Shawl Border Row 6 & 7: ch 3, dc in each st around, 5 dc in each corner st.
Shawl Border Row 8: repeat Shawl Edge Row 5.
Shawl Border Row 9 (Fringe edge) : ch 1, sc around, 2 sc ch 1 on bottom & top sides, join w sl st to first st. (If you’re not planning to add fringe, you can sc across the short edges.)
Alternate Shawl Border Row 9: (picot edge shown in photo): ch 1, 5 sc, picot around, working [sc, picot] 3x in each corner st.
(Picot: sc, ch 3, sc into side of last sc made.)
Fasten off.
Weave in all ends.
Add fringe to short ends.
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Video tutorials available at
http://tinyurl.com/6DayKidBlanket
This pattern is the intellectual property of Betty McKnit/Beth Elliott, and it is protected by copyright. Publishing corrections, translations, written or video tutorials, or variations of this pattern, online or elsewhere, without written permission from the owner is a violation of copyright.
The stitch pattern is “Vivid Chevrons” #110 from 200 Ripple Stitch Patterns by Jan Eaton.
Reprinted with permission from Quarto Publishing.
Thank you to Marian Faries D’Ambrosio for her tip about working the edge stitches from the back to the front to alleviate rolling.