Introduction
This pattern is an adaptation of the 6-Day Supernova Blanket by Betty McKnit.
This pattern creates a slightly more than circular star-shaped skirt with an opening to wrap around your Christmas or Holiday tree. It has nine large points and eight small points and a custom twisted fringe icicle edge. If you would like to make a Tree Skirt without the opening and just a hole in the center to put on an artificial tree, you can use the original 6-Day Star, Superstar or Supernova patterns and make an opening in the center by chaining 28, work one round of sc, and then pick up the pattern on Setup Round 3.
There are tree skirt adaptations with openings for the 6-Day Star and the 6-Day Superstar as well.
Finished Size: approx. 64” across, easy to upsize. If you would like a smaller tree skirt, I recommend using the Star or Superstar pattern instead of this one, since you will need to work at least three repeats after adding the small points for them to really show up.
Materials:
Yarn: 2700 yards of #4 Worsted Weight Yarn in your choice of holiday colors
Shown in
Color A: Big Twist Value White
Color B: Big Twist Twinkle Silver
(two skeins of Color A and three of Color B)
Hook: Furls Streamline Size I (6 mm)
Gauge: 13 sts and 14 rows in sc over 4”
Skill Level: Easy
Abbreviations
bet: between
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dc3tog: double crochet 3 together cluster
rsc: reverse single crochet
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
sp(s): space or spaces
st(s): stitch(es)
Special Stitches:
dc3tog (cluster) – this stitch is a cluster, not a decrease. It is worked as follows: yo, pull up a loop, pull through two loops, *yo, pull up a loop IN THE SAME STITCH/SPACE, pull through two loops, repeat from *, yo and pull through all loops on the hook. dc3tog complete.
About the row numbers:
In order to provide consistency across all of the 6DKB pattern variations, I’ve numbered the rows to correspond to the original 6-Day Kid Blanket pattern. The cluster rows are always Row or Round 2 and 3, the dc rows are always Row or Round 5 and 6, and the sc rows are always Row or Round 4 and 7. This makes it easy to adapt any pattern to the Snowflake Effect, Half Snowflake, Popsicle, or the original Vivid Chevrons.
I will give color changes for the stripes pictured (variation of Snowflake Effect) but you can stripe your skirt any way you like.
Work into st below the turning chain unless directed otherwise.
Begin Pattern
With Color A, Ch 35
Turn
Setup Row 1: starting from second st from the hook, sc across.
Turn
Set-up Row 2: ch 2, dc in same st, *ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, repeat from * to last sc, ch 3, dc in last sc. (9 ch 3 sps and 8 ch 1 sp Note: 2 dc are NOT made in the same st.)
Turn
Set-up Row 3: ch 3, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp. *dc3tog in ch 1 sp, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, repeat from * across, dc in top of turning chain.
Turn
Change to Color B
Set-up Row 4: ch 3, *[3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, dc3tog in next 2 sps, repeat from * to last peak, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in last ch 3 sp, dc in turning ch.
Turn
Set-Up Row 5: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, working 3 sc in ch 3 sps, finish by sc in turning ch.
Turn
Set Up Row 6: ch 3, counting the st under your ch sk 2, 3 dc, *[5 dc in center sc from row below], 4 dc, sk 2, 4 dc, repeat from * to last peak, [5 dc in center sc from row below], 3 dc, sk 1, dc in last sc.
Turn
Change to Color A
Set Up Row 7: ch 3, counting the st under your ch sk 2, 4 dc, *[5 dc in center dc from row below], 5 dc, sk 2, 5 dc, repeat from * to last peak, [5 dc in center sc from row below], 4 dc, sk 1, dc in turning ch.
Turn
Set Up Row 8: ch 1, sc in same sp, 6 sc, *4 sc in center dc, 14 sc, repeat from * to last peak, 4 sc in center dc, 6 sc, sc in turning ch.
Turn
Proceed to Row 2
You will be guided to work the rows in the proper order; don’t overthink or be thrown off by the change in the numerical sequence. Trust the pattern, it works!
Row 2: ch 3, counting the st under your chain, sk 3, 3 dc in next sc, *[sk 2, 3 dc in next st], repeat from * to top of the mountain, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in third of 4 sc, **[sk 2, 3 dc in next st], repeat from ** making last 3 dc in the third sc from the center valley st, sk 2, dc3tog in the center valley st, repeat from * to last 2 sts, sk 1, dc in last st.
Turn
Change to Color B
Row 3: ch 3, sk sp between turning ch and next 3 dc, *3 dc in next sp, repeat from * to top of the mountain, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, **3 dc in next sp, repeat to the valley, dc3tog in sps before and after the dc3tog in the row below, repeat from * to end, dc in last turning ch sp.
Turn
Row 4: ch 1, sc in same sp, 9 (15, 21, 27, etc) sc, * 3 sc in ch 3 sp, 20 (32, 20, 26 etc) sc, repeat from * to last ch 3 sp, 3 sc in ch 3 sp, 9 (15, 21, 27…) sc, sc in turning ch.
The numbers in parentheses show the number of scs on each subsequent repeat of the pattern
Turn
Row 5: Ch 3, counting the st beneath your ch sk 2, 9 (15) dc, *[5 dc in center sc from row below], 10 (16) dc, sk 2, 10 (16), dc, repeat from *, 9 (15) dc, sk 1, dc in last st.
Turn
Change to Color A
Row 6: Ch 3, counting the st beneath your ch sk 2, 10 (16) dc, *[5 dc in center dc from row below], 11 (17) dc, sk 2, 11, (17) dc, repeat from *, 10 (16) dc, sk 1, dc in top of turning ch.
Turn
Row 7: ch 1, sc in same st and each st across, making 4 sc in each center of 5 dc from the row below, repeat to end, sc in turning ch. (You should have 13 sc on each side of the peak and 4 sc in each center dc st).
Turn
Repeat Rows 2-6, skip row 7 and proceed to Row 7a, 2a, and 3a, changing colors every three rows.
Row 7a (this row will create new peaks between the existing peaks): ch 1, sc in same st, 18 sc, *3 sc in center of 5 dc from the row below, 18 sc, ch 3, sk 2, 18 sc, repeat from * to last peak, 3 sc in center dc, 18 sc, sc in turning ch.
Turn
Row 2a: ch 3, counting the st beneath your ch, sk 3, 3 dc in next sc, *[sk 2, 3 dc in next st] repeat from * to the top of the mountain, [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in center sc, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] 4x, sk 2, dc3tog, sk 4, [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, sk 4, dc3tog. Repeat from * to last peak, *[sk 2, 3 dc in next st], [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] * 6 times, sk 1, dc in last sc.
Turn
Row 3a: ch 3, sk sp between dc and 3 dc, 3 dc in each of next 6 sps, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, *3 dc in each of next 4 sps, dc3tog in next 2 sps (before and after the dc3tog in the row below), [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, dc3tog in next 2 sps (before and after the dc3tog in the row below), 3 dc in each of next 4 sps, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, repeat from * to last peak, 3 dc in each of next 6 sps, dc in turning ch sp.
Turn
Repeat Row 4, making 1 sc in each st and 3 sc in each ch 3 sp. Continue Row 5a.
Turn
Row 5a (takes the place of Row 5 from now to the end): Ch 3, counting the st beneath your ch sk 2, 21 (24, 27, 30, etc) dc, *[5 dc in center sc from row below], 16 (19, 22, 25 etc) dc, sk 2, 4 (7, 10, 13 etc) dc, [5 dc in center sc from row below], 4 (7, 10, 13 etc) dc, sk 2, 16 (19, 22, 25 etc) dc, repeat from * to last peak, 5 dc in center sc, 21 (24, 27, 30,…) dc, sk 1, dc in last st.
Turn
Row 6a (takes the place of Row 6 from now to the end): Ch 3, counting the st beneath your ch sk 2, 22 (25, 28, 31 etc) dc, *[5 dc in center dc from row below], 17 (20, 23, 26 etc) dc, sk 2, 5 (8, 11, 14 etc) dc, [5 dc in center sc from row below], 5 (8, 11, 14 etc) dc, sk 2, 17 (20, 23, 26 etc) dc, repeat from * to last peak, [5 dc in center dc], 22 (25, 28, 31…) dc, sk 1, dc in last st.
Turn
On subsequent rows 5a and 6a, the number of dcs on either side of the mountains will increase by 3. The numbers in parentheses show the number of dcs on each subsequent repeat of the pattern.
Row 7b (takes the place of Row 7 from now to the end): ch 1, sc in same st and each st around, making 2 sc in each center of 5 dc from the row below. (You should have 25 (31, 37 etc) sc on each end, 26 (32, 38, etc) dc between each peak, and 2 sc in the peaks.
Turn
Row 2b: ch 3, counting the st under your chain sk 2, 3 dc in next st, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] 7x, *[3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in second of 2 sc in peak, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] 5x, sk 4, dc3tog in center sc of valley, sk 4, 3 dc in next st, sk 2, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in second of 2 sc of peak, sk 2, 3 dc in next st, sk 4, dc3tog in center sc of valley, sk 4, [3 dc in next st, sk 2] 5x, repeat from * to last peak, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in second of 2 sc of peak, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] 8x, dc in last sc.
Turn
Row 3b: ch 3, skip sp bet last dc and 3 dc, 3 dc in each of next 8 sps, *[3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, 3 dc in each of next 5 sps, dc3tog in each of next 2 sps (before and after the dc3tog in the row below) 3 dc in next sp, [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, 3 dc in next sp, dc3tog in each of next 2 sps (before and after the dc3tog in the row below), 3 dc in each of next 5 sps, repeat from * to last peak, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, 3 dc in each of next 8 sps, dc in turning ch sp.
Turn
Repeat Rows 4, 5a, 6a, and 7b in that order.
Row 2c (Takes the place of Row 2 from now to the end): ch 3, counting the st under your chain, *[sk 2, 3 dc in next st], repeat from * to top of the mountain, sk 2, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in second of 2 sc from row below, **[sk 2, 3 dc in next st], repeat from ** to 5th stitch before the valley, making last 3 dc in the fifth sc from the valley, sk 4, dc3tog in the center valley st, sk 4, 3 dc in next st, repeat from * to last peak, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in second of 2 sc from row below, repeat [sk 2, dc in next st] to second to last st, dc in last st.
Turn
Row 3c (Takes the place of Row 3 from now to the end): ch 3, sk sp between last dc and 3 dc, *3 dc in next sp, repeat from * to top of the mountain, [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, **3 dc in next sp, repeat from ** to the valley, dc3tog in sps before and after the dc3tog in the row below, repeat from * to last peak, [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, **3 dc in next sp, repeat from ** to end making last 3 dc in second to last sp, dc in turning ch sp.
Turn
Repeat Rows (4, 5a, 6a, 7b, 2c, 3c) to desired length. Repeat row 4 once more. Continue to edge.
Edging
And the end of your last row (which should be a single crochet row), make 3 sc in the last stitch. Begin working down the sides of your rows to finish off the opening of the skirt. Use the turning chains, the sc and dc stitches as foundation chains, working under 2 threads of each stitch and leaving one thread below.
There is no set rule for how many stitches you should put into the side of each stitch. If you chained 4 to turn or did edc so that your edges would not curl, you probably will have to skip some stitches periodically. Find out what works for your tension. Lay your work down often and check to make sure that your edge does not ruffle (too many stitches) or pull (too few).
When you get to the corner where the side edge meets your starting ch, work 3 sc in first st, work across the bottom of your starting ch and put 3 sc in the last st. Continue working up the side of your rows working sc into the stitches as before. Fasten off.
You have two options for the border: Twisted Fringe Icicle Border or Twisted Fringe with Candy Cane Edge.
Hints for working this edge:
- Be prepared. It takes forever.
- Take time to lay your work down often and check for ruffling. If your edge ruffles, you should skip a stitch every 5 or even 3 stitches to keep your work flat.
- You can adjust the amount of twist in each strand of fringe, twist more, if you like.
Twisted Fringe Icicle Border
Join Color B (or color you would like the fringe to be) with standing sc to first st of the outer edge of the skirt.
*sc, Make one strand of fringe by pulling the loop on the hook until it is approximately 6 inches long. Twist the loop 20 times, sc in same st, allow the loop to untwist back on itself. 3 sc. Repeat from * to end.
Icicle Border with Candy Cane Edge
To work this border with a candy cane edge in addition to the twisted fringe, proceed as follows:
Join Color B (or color you would like the fringe to be) with standing sc to first st of the outer edge of the skirt. Make one strand of fringe by pulling the loop on the hook until it is approximately 6 inches long. Twist the loop 20 times, sc in same st, allow the loop to untwist back on itself. Ch 3, drop stitch from hook.
Join Color A with standing sc to the next st, ch 3. Drop from hook.
- Pick up Color B, working in front of Color A sc in next st. Make one strand of fringe by pulling the loop on the hook until it is approximately 6 inches long. Twist the loop 20 times, sc in same st, allow the loop to untwist back on itself. Ch 3, drop stitch from hook.
Pick up Color A, ch 3, working in front of Color B sc in next st. Drop Color A.
3 sc. Repeat from * to end. Sc in last st.
Note: Lay your work down often with the candy cane edge, as it can ruffle if you place too many stitches. I found that I had to skip a stitch every 6-10 stitches in order to avoid ruffling. Your tension may vary.
Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Beth McKee Elliott, also known as Betty McKnit, is a crochet and knitting designer, instructor, community leader, and Master Somatic Movement Therapist and Educator. Her signature style, 6-Day Crochet, is showcased in the viral crochet patterns the 6-Day Kid Blanket and 6-Day Star Blanket.
Beth/Betty is passionate about designing quick, adaptable, go-to crochet and knitting projects, and is committed to being accessible to assist crafters in bringing their dream projects to life.
She specializes in Somatic Crochet and Knitting, a mindfulness practice that combines crochet/knitting with body awareness techniques to prevent injury and promote well-being and creativity in crafting.
Pattern Tested by KD Wright, Peta Gehrmann, Laura Cromwell, Lecisha Eacholes and Dee Louise
Special thanks to KD Wright and Peta Gehrmann for their work on the development of this pattern and to the citizens of the Betty McKnitiverse who rush-order tested this pattern.
Join us in the 6-Day Kid Blanket Facebook Group for help with this pattern. Video tutorials for the 6-Day Star Blankets, which you may find helpful in working this pattern, are available on my YouTube Channel.
This page contains affiliate links. If you click these links and buy something on the page they take you to, I may, at no additional cost to you, earn a commission. I only affiliate with products and companies I feel good about. Thank you for your support!
This pattern is original and the intellectual property of Beth McKee Elliott aka Betty McKnit. This pattern, The 6-Day Kid Blanket, “6DKB,” 6-Day Star Blanket, “6DSB,” and all derivative works are protected by copyright. Publishing translations, corrections, variations, or tutorials of this pattern, online or elsewhere without written permission from the owner is a violation of copyright.
The 6-Day Crochet stitch pattern was inspired by “Vivid Chevrons” #110 from 200 Ripple Stitch Patterns by Jan Eaton.
Items created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale with credit to Betty McKnit in your listing. Mass production is not permitted.
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