6-Day Holiday Table Runner – Hanukkah Colors

A variation of the classic crochet pattern the 
6-Day Kid Blanket by Betty McKnit

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Introduction

This pattern is for a holiday table runner in the 6-Day Kid Blanket stitches. It is striped in Hanukkah colors and has a simple picot edge. The traditional blue and white is set off with just a little sparkle. 

There are also Christmas and Kwanzaa inspired versions of this pattern available on my website and in my pattern stores.  I hope this project brings a festive touch to your holiday decor and brightens your celebrations.

Details
US Terminology
Skill Level: Easy 
Finished Size: Length: 28” (variable) Width: 10” (variable)

Materials
Less than one skein (380 yards) each of Worsted Weight Acrylic yarn, shown in Big Twist Value in White and Big Twist Twinkle in Sapphire
Gauge: 4in = 13sc x 15 rows
US I/5.5 mm hook and J/6 mm
Scissors
Yarn Needle

Converting US to UK Terminology

US terms abbreviation	UK terms abbreviation
single crochet sc	double crochet dc
half double crochet hdc	half treble crochet htr
double crochet dc	treble crochet tr

Abbreviations:
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dc3tog: (This stitch is a cluster, not a decrease). 

Work dc3tog into one stitch – not over three stitches

[yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops] 3 times in the same stitch every time. Yarn over, and pull through all 4 loops on the hook. dc3tog complete.

fdc: foundation single crochet 
hdc: half double crochet
picot: sc, ch 3, sc into side of sc. 
rep: repeat
sc: single crochet
sk: skip
sl st: slip stitch
sp(s): space(s) 
sts: stitch (es)

Does it really only take six days to make?

Yes. As written, this project can be worked up in an evening. If you upsize, be prepared for it to take longer, but even the longest of table runners could be completed in six days of easy crochet.

Make a Swatch

I highly recommend that you swatch on 30 sts following the pattern as written and this YouTube video. Swatching will help you learn the stitches and avoid some common errors before casting on hundreds of stitches.

Swatching is also recommended if you plan to lengthen this project. More on this below.

How to Resize

The measurements and starting chains given are options. For perfect sizing, make a swatch on 30 chains with your chosen yarn and hook, following the pattern as written, and do the math for a custom-sized runner. To add length, add points to this pattern, adding 13 sts for each additional point. The resize multiple is 13 x (# of points) + 4. 

For a wider runner, work additional pattern repeats, although a table runner is traditionally around 8-10” wide. Keep in mind that the pattern ends with a half-repeat on row 4 (not 7) before squaring off the top edge.

In my tension, in worsted weight, each repeat added 4.5” of length. If you would like to use a lighter weight of yarn, you will need to make a swatch and measure it to determine your starting chains and number of repeats needed.

Color Changes

This pattern gives specific color changes, however these stitches can take on many different looks depending on where you change colors, so if you would like to customize your stripes, here is an article about the 6-Day Kid Blanket to help you decide how to do that. Cake yarn also looks amazing in the 6-Day Blanket stitches; choose your favorite colorway and “let it flow.” 

To change yarn on color changes, draw the new color through the last two loops of the last stitch of the row before the color change.

About the Row Numbers

In order to provide consistency across all of the 6DKB pattern variations, I’ve numbered the rows to correspond to the original 6-Day Kid Blanket pattern. You will be guided to work the rows in the proper order; don’t let the numbers throw you off or overthink a change in the sequence.

Stripe Symmetry

Remember that the piece ends on row 4, and so it has a half repeat at the top of the work. The top square off pattern stitches do not work if you finish on row 7. Be aware of this as you plan your stripes and color repeats.

Side edges

Some crocheters have had issues with the side edges of their work curling. My suggestion is to work the last stitch of each row by inserting the hook from back to front, instead of from front to back. 

Starting Hook

I recommend making your chain with a hook .5 mm larger than the hook you plan to work your project with. You can also instead start with fsc, in which case you will need one fewer chain than given, and can skip Setup Row 1.

Begin Pattern:

With Sapphire and larger hook, ch 82 (multiple of 13+4) 

Place stitch markers along your chain every 20 stitches to help keep track of your stitches.

Setup Row 1: starting in second ch from hook, sc across.

Turn

Change to smaller hook for the rest of the project.

Setup Row 2: ch 1, 5 sc, 6 hdc, *7 sc, 6 hdc repeat from * to last 5 st, 5 sc.

Turn

Setup Row 3: ch 1, 3 sc, *3 hdc, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, 3 hdc, sc, sl st, sc, repeat from * to last 13 sts, 3 hdc, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, 3 hdc, 3 sc.

Turn

Setup Row 4: ch 1, 3 sc, *3 hdc, 2 dc, [dc, ch 1, dc] in ch 2 sp, 2 dc, 3 hdc, sc, sl st, sc, repeat from * to last peak, 3 hdc, 2 dc, [dc, ch 1, dc] in ch 2 sp, 2 dc, 3 hdc, 3 sc.

Turn

Change to White

Setup Row 5: ch 1, sc, sk 1, 7 sc, *3 sc in ch sp, 7 sc, sk 1, 7 sc, repeat from * to last peak, 3 sc in ch sp, 7 sc, sk 1, sc in last st.

Turn

 Proceed to Row 2

Row 2: ch 3, sk first 3 sc (the sc below your turning chain counts as 1)

[3 dc in next sc, sk 2] twice, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] into next sc, *sk 2, 3 dc into next sc, sk 2 sc, dc3tog, sk 4, dc3tog, sk 2, 3 dc in next sc, sk 2, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next sc; rep from * to last 9 sc, sk 2 sc [3 dc in next sc, sk 2] twice, dc into last sc.

Turn 

Remember that dc3tog is a cluster and not a decrease.

Row 3: ch 3, sk sp between turning ch and next 3 dc group, 3 dc into each of next 2 sp, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] into ch 3 sp, *3 dc into next sp, dc3tog into next sp, sk next sp, dc3tog into next sp, 3 dc into next sp, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] into next ch 3 sp, rep from * to last 3 sps, 3 dc into each of next 2 sps, 1 dc into sp between last 3 dc group and turning ch.

Turn

Row 4: ch 1, sc into first dc of the row (the one right below your turning chain), sk 1, sc into each of next 8 dc, *3 sc into ch 3 sp, sc into each of next 14 sts, repeat from * to last ch 3 sp, 3 sc into last ch 3 sp, sc into each of next 8 dc, sk 1, sc into top of turning ch. 

Turn 

Change to Sapphire

Row 5: ch 3, sk first 2 sc of the row below (the sc your turning chain is coming out of counts as the first one). 8 dc, *3 dc into next sc (you  should be working these into the center stitch of the 3 sc.) 7 dc, sk 2, dc into each of next 7 sc, rep from * to last 11 sc, 3 dc into next sc, 8 dc, sk 1, dc in last st.

Turn 

Row 6: Ch 3, sk first 2 dc in the row below (the dc below your turning chain counts as 1), 8 dc, *3 dc into next dc (you should be working into center stitch of 3 dc), 7 dc, sk 2, 7 dc, rep from * to last 10 dc, 3 dc in next dc, 8 dc, sk last dc, dc into top of turning ch.

Turn 

Change to White

Row 7: Ch 1, sc into first dc (the same one the turning chain is coming out of), sk 1, sc into each st to last dc, sk last dc, sc into top of turning ch.

Turn  

Repeat Rows 2-7, changing colors as indicated above – Rows 2-4 White, Rows 5 and 6 Sapphire, Row 7 White.

Repeat rows 2-4 one time in appropriate colors.

Change to Sapphire and square off the top:

Square off Row 1: ch 3, counting the stitch under the turning chain, sk 2, 3 dc, 3 hdc, 2 sc, sl st, 2 sc
*3 hdc, 2 dc, sk 2, 2 dc, 3 hdc, 2 sc, sl st, 2 sc, repeat from * to last 8 sts, 3 hdc, 3 dc, sk 1, dc in last sc.

Turn

Square off Row 2: ch 3, counting the stitch under the turning chain, sk 2, 3 dc, 3 hdc, sc, sl st, sc, *3 hdc, 2 dc, sk 2, 2 dc, 3 hdc, sc, sl st, sc, repeat from * to last 8 sts, 3 hdc, 3 dc, sk 1, dc into turning ch.
Turn

Square off Row 3: ch 3, counting the stitch below the turning chain sk 2, 3 hdc, 7 sc, *6 hdc, 7 sc* until 5 st remain, 3 hdc, sk 1, hdc in last st.
Turn

Square off Row 4: ch 1, sc in same st and in each st across, work 3 sc in the last st of the row. Do not turn or fasten off. 

Picot Border

Border Round 1: Continuing in Sapphire, rotate the work and continue to sc down the sides of the stitches. Use the turning chains, the sc and dc stitches as foundation chains, working under 2 threads of each stitch and leaving one thread below.

There is no set rule for how many stitches you should put into the side of each stitch. Find out what works for your tension. In general, two stitches into each dc and turning ch and one into each sc with occasional skips works for me, but your tension may be very different from mine. Lay your work down often and check to make sure that your edge does not ruffle (too many stitches) or pull (too few). 

Continue working sc around the piece, working 3 sc in the corners, working across the bottom of your starting ch or fsc, up the other side same as the first, and across the top. Work 3 sc in last st. Do not fasten off.

Border Round 2:  *3 sc, (ch 3, sc into side of sc just made). Repeat from * around. Fudge to land picots in corner sts. Finish with picot in center sc of corner. Join with sl st.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.